Breeding Malawi Cichlids - Mbuna, Haps & Peacocks

[RazorBlade]

By John Wong (nick: RazorBlade)

Prologue

I find Malawi Reef Lake cichlids being among the easiest fishes to breed. They all reach sexual maturity quickly. They LOVE to spawn non-stop (once they start, they won’t stop!). They also have a sizeable brood. However, Malawi cichlids may not cooperate sometimes when it comes to breeding. There are a myriad number of reasons, some of which I try to highlight in this article. Some of the successful methods I’ve used are highlighted below too.

Intro

In case you haven’t realized, Malawi Rift Lake cichlids are mostly “maternal mouthbrooders”. Basically, mouthbrooders keep their fragile eggs in their mouths! The term “maternal” means that the females are the ones keeping their eggs in their mouths. “Holding” refers to the period when the female is keeping the eggs in their mouths. Holding periods range from 3 to 4 weeks (21 – 28 days), depending on the fish type.

For spawning to occur, you need at least a male and a female of the same fish. All Malawi Rift Lake cichlids will need to reach sexual maturity before they spawn. As a guideline, sexual maturity occurs at the following age:

Mbunas – 6 months to 18 months
Haps – 12 months to 24 months
Peacocks – 24 months to 36 months

When the female is ready, there usually is a slight bulge near her anal fin – the eggs! The male would notice it too, and proceed to lure the female to the spawning area. The spawning ritual commences! First, the male starts colouring up, flaring for the female and luring her to a spawning area. Next, the spawning dance – the female lays her eggs one at a time, the male fertilizes it, the female picks it up in her mouth, and the process repeats. Spawning could last for as short as 10 minutes to over 30 minutes!

The female will be holding for 3 to 4 weeks before releasing the fry. Broods can range from as little as 20 fry to 100+ fry depending on the fish size – the bigger the fish type, the larger the brood (usually). Generally:

Mbunas have 20-40 fry
Haps 20-100+ (some Haps are HUGE)
Peacocks 20-80

[RazorBlade]

Breeding Pair

The one most important factor to breed cichlids: Make sure you have males and females! Without a pair = no breeding possible.

Tank Setup & Environment

Second, the environment of the tank. The environment will affect several key factors when breeding cichlids:

1. Fish health

Healthy fish will show interest to mate. Sick ones will not. Being mouthbrooders, you have to make sure the female is healthy & strong to last the holding period of 2-4 weeks. So, make sure your cichlids are healthy!

2. Water quality & Water changes

Water quality affects a host of factors – fish health, fish behavior, etc. If water parameters (pH, hardness, temp) are not good, don’t expect the fish to show any interest in mating.

However, I’ve also noticed that they are more interested in mating immediately after a water change. I’ve tried this on numerous occasions, and have experienced success too.

3. Tank Mates (or the lack of)

A pair is the bare minimum for mating, but it is always best to keep a high ratio of females per male. Generally 3 females for every 1 male is a good idea. Remember also that usually only the Alpha/Dominant male will spawn with the females.

Keeping a species tank is, in my honest opinion, the best method for spawning. In a community tank, there is a possibility that only the Tank Alpha/Dominant male will spawn. The others may not be ‘allowed’ to spawn. Of course, there’s also the possibility of hybridization.

In an overstocked tank, you can basically kiss “goodbye” to spawning – there just isn’t enough ‘room’ for spawning.

4. Spawning Area

For spawning to occur, the cichlid pair would need a spawning area – a cave, a flat area with an overhanging rock formation, etc. I usually setup my tank in a way that there are caves that can fit 2-4 fishes at a time (remember they need to do that ‘spawn dance’ and would need some room for it), a flat area with an overhanging rock, and even some open-space. The male may also ‘dig’ himself a proper spawning area as well.

5. Diet

A healthy diet is important. The fish would need to be fed well; otherwise they will not have the energy and protein resources for the spawning ritual. Feeding is especially important for the female so that she has the resources for the eggs and the holding period.

[RazorBlade]

Fry – releasing and survival

Third, is the survival of the fish fry. While allowing the female to hold the eggs to ‘full term’ before releasing them is ok, fry survival rates are questionable. In a community tank, fry survival rates are “very very low”.

A common practice is ‘fry stripping’. Basically, it’s removing the fry from the female before she releases them. This is usually done between 2-3 weeks since spawning, when the fry are ‘ready’ to survive in the open water. I usually strip the fry at 2 to 2 ½ weeks and keep the fry in a fry tank.

If stripped too early, the fry will still be underdeveloped and are at high risk to die from fungus growth – underdeveloped fry will require a ‘tumbler setup’.

“Troubleshooting”

Still have problems? Haha, cichlids can be very uncooperative sometimes.

A common failing among aquarists is to feed too much. Overfeeding results in fat fishes – fat fishes are also less likely to spawn. A method I practice is to stop feeding for a 2-3 day period to ‘trim down’ the fishes. It works too.

If you have a community tank, try to temporarily transfer the fishes you want to breed to a separate setup or a less populated tank. I’ve tried it, and it works!

Female spawned, but the eggs disappeared? It is pretty normal for first-time mothers to NOT hold successfully during her first try due to inexperience – she may spit them early or swallow them. Also, if tank mates are very aggressive, mothers may be ‘forced’ to spit out the eggs early – “Happy hour” for all the other tank mates. Also, the male or female may not be sexually mature ... and hopefully not infertile (keep your fingers crossed).

Low fry survival rates? Fry get eaten? Fry don’t seem to survive in the tank? In my experience, fry stripping is the best way to ensure high survival rates – without stripping, fry survival rates were 0-10%; with stripping, fry survival rates were 70-95%!!!

Also remember that fry are more ‘sensitive’ to water quality & water parameter changes. Take due care.

[RazorBlade]

Conclusion

Consistent breeding is considered one of the ‘highest achievements’ for aquarists – an indication of healthy and happy fishes. If your cichlids are breeding, congratulations to you as you have provided them with a good and proper home.

Most of all, fish-keeping is a hobby and is all about having fun! Good luck, and have fun!

P.S. If you're not into breeding your fishes, don't despair! It is just a hobby! (Of course, you are missing out on some fantastic fish behavior!)

[RazorBlade]

(reserved)

Any comments? Experiences? Flaming? Complaints? Praise? Feel free to post!

Article written in Sept 2004, reproduced here (previously posted in another website, which has since been taken down in 2005)

P.S. Can anybody inform the Administrator/Mod to have this thread converted into a sticky please?

[EzieG]

very impressive articles and i'm sure all african cichlid lovers who keen in breeding programme will be benefited from these...

Good luck...

[RazorBlade]

Can anybody inform the Administrator/Mod to have this thread converted into a sticky please?

[EzieG]

John, i think some photo and video may help to clear these...

sadly, i dont have photo or video to contribute here...

[Cichlid Connections]

Good information dude, ........... keep it up.... Anything you wanna add esp. on your water parameters ?

[RazorBlade]

Originally Posted by Cichlid Connections

Anything you wanna add esp. on your water parameters ?

Probably if I write an article on "How To Keep Malawi Cichlids the Biotope Way". Don't want to have too much info in the above article on Breeding.

See lah, when I'm free (or bored) at night ...

P.S. Anybody can get an Admin/Mod to make this a sticky please? Not to blow my own horn, but just trying to be of help.

P.S. #2 On photos/video, I gotta take some first. Hmm ... I'll have the article updated from time to time to "keep things fresh". But be patient la!